Cruise Screen

Wednesday, March 1, 2006  Appearing from behind thick scrub with the rope that had moored the steamboat to an oak tree, the deckhand jumped onto the gangway just as the American Queen backed into the river. On the shore, a small crowd of kids waved goodbye to the first steamboat they’d ever seen, along with grandparents who had seen it many times before.  Sailing through the vast interior waterways of the US, the American Queen is one of three boats of the Delta Queen Steamboat Company, which offers the only remaining overnight steamboat passenger service in the US, as well as a taste of the days of Mark Twain. 

Cruising from Memphis, Tennessee to Cincinnati, Ohio on the Mississippi and Ohio Rivers, it didn’t take me long to realise that river cruising is different from ocean cruising. At most ports, there were no docks to tie up to. Rather, the boat nestled up against the muddy riverbank while a crew member jumped ashore to find a tree to tie off to. Instead of gambling or shopping in port, the entire trip was based around the river, leading passengers further and further inland, passing vast expanses of forest and small towns perched on the riverbank.  Most port calls reflect a simpler way of life, with towns boasting only a few thousand residents and one Main Street. There are few bona-fide attractions in each town visited. New Madrid in Missouri’s main claim to fame, had a large earthquake that took place 190 years ago, while in Paducah, Kentucky, the biggest attraction is a quilt museum.  This is small town America, where locals are almost unnervingly friendly and having steamboats tie up at their town is an event that draws crowds. 

Steaming upstream, we delighted in watching the river and its traffic change each day — from a wide and thickly forested shore with sets of towboats and barges sharing the channel, to the green and hilly landscape of the Ohio River, with sleepy villages peeking out from the trees. Kids ran down their lawns to wave at us as we sailed by, while their mothers slowly trailed behind. At night, the river was entirely different, hushed and silent beneath clear, starry skies with only an occasional red or green light on shore marking the channel. Until you’ve been on the river, it is impossible to understand its serenity and fascinating appeal. Far from being boring, sitting on the boat’s rocking chairs or porch swings watching the world go by is infinitely satisfying. 

With their all-American crew, the boats are a slice of US life and have a real national identity. Full of spirit, the crew is one of the most colourful that you’ll find on any ship. Friendly and cheerful and, at times, extraordinarily funny, many have been on the steamboats for a decade or more and consider them their homes and their fellow crew, family. The food has a very southern and Cajun influence, with traditional river specialties like catfish and jambalaya and the staple bread pudding showing up every night in a fashion that competes favourably with some of the premium cruise lines. 

For those who want more to do than watch the river, the boats come up with a slew of activities, along the lines of good old-fashioned fun. One of the most popular is kite flying. Each boat has a riverlorian, or river historian, who shares his or her extensive knowledge of the river and its history, helping connect passengers to their surroundings. With the company based in New Orleans, home to jazz and an intense music scene, Delta Queen takes its entertainment seriously, and a first rate Dixie, big band and ragtime band entertains passengers throughout the day accompanied by banjo players, vaudeville acts or pianists. Theme cruise topics include the Civil War, a bluegrass jamboree, Southern culture and steamboat races, where two of the boats will race over an entire cruise. 

Sailing from 11 major embarkation points, ranging from New Orleans to St. Paul to Pittsburgh and everything in-between, the steamboats truly traverse the nation’s interior. The Upper Mississippi from St. Louis to St. Paul is America’s heartland and features beautiful rolling hills and gentle farmlands. Fall Foliage cruises in September and October are probably the most beautiful trips available. The Wilderness Rivers, including the Ohio River stretching east all the way to Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania, roll right past small towns and communities, as if the boat is cutting through their backyards. These rivers are where steamboats, and much of America, got its start and the history is still easily accessible. 

The Delta Queen, built in 1926 with an all-wooden superstructure, is a National Historic Landmark that attracts a following as loyal as can be found anywhere. Small, intimate and utterly charming, the Delta Queen is often compared to a warm bed and breakfast. As on the American Queen, most of the cabins open up directly onto communal decks, which helps to create a neighbourly feel and adds to the naturally friendly spirit found on board. 

The Mississippi Queen and the American Queen, built in 1976 and 1995 respectively, are larger and feature modern amenities like small pools or verandah cabins. By the time we reached Cincinnati, I was totally relaxed — this was one trip where I didn’t need a vacation after my vacation. Life seemed to slow down to the boat’s sluggish but hypnotic pace up the river and all the passengers fell under the river’s spell. 

Nowhere was this spell felt more strongly for me than when I would finish my night by walking back to the brightly lit red paddlewheel. Spinning with a steady, rhythmic slapping of the water that created a reassuring sound as the darkened shore slipped by, I found myself thinking of steamboats of the past while hoping that this paddlewheel would turn forever, magically caught in another era. Desire — billed as a “Las Vegas-Style Topless Revue” — began at 11.30pm in the smart 973-seat Lido theatre for “a night of love and romance with a hint of desire”. Although we were a small audience, the mood was expectant. Surprisingly, even though nine voluptuous topless dancers valiantly endeavoured to transmit a “hint of desire” during their lively performance, the show failed to ignite. 

Oh well, there’s always next time. http://travel.ninemsn.com.au/